Assam: Jorhat -> Guwahati – The Humans to the Yoni, the Animals to the Slaughterbank

 20. – 22. November 2025

 

 

I had booked a bus from Jorhat to Guwahati, together with a hotel staff member, because I can’t really manage that so easily, especially the payment part. It was a bit complicated, and he needed my WhatsApp contact and my Indian phone number. And then I received the ticket on my phone. Departure from Jorhat at 9:00.

 

The next morning I was even more impressed: I was sent a link showing where the bus was. Titabor. I assumed that was the name of the bus station. The hotel arranged a rickshaw for me; he dropped me around the corner, and then I was supposed to take a shared taxi to Titabor. Time was already getting tight, and I checked where Titabor actually was. 32 minutes away! Really far! I’d never make it! So I started communicating via WhatsApp with that contact. Why Titabor? The bus was starting from there — I was supposed to go to Jorhat, to the ISBT. The bus would leave on time!

 

I jumped out of the shared taxi, had a small issue with change, sorted it out, looked confused — and then a rickshaw driver approached me. Could he help? ISBT — very fast! Yes, he could! Meanwhile I kept chatting, and they were trying to blame various people. I played up my age and how difficult it all was to understand! Slowly the chat person became more sympathetic. Where exactly was I? Please, please let the bus wait for me! And then — unbelievably — five minutes after the scheduled departure time, I arrived. The bus was still there. I and my luggage got in, and off we went!
The guy kept chatting. He was the bus owner. He has 12 buses. They are the best buses in Assam (true). And then I sank into the seat in relief. I think without the chat, the bus really would have left…

 

 

 

 

In Guwahati, I checked too late where my hotel and the bus were, and ended up going a bit too far. Not a big deal, but inconvenient. A rickshaw driver eventually picked me up and took me there. By then it was getting dark, and I was just exhausted.

 

 

 

 

Then the next day started with a different challenge: exchanging money! In places with lots of tourists, there are plenty of opportunities. But here? I still felt pretty much alone out in the middle of nowhere. I asked at the hotel: no idea. On Google Maps I found a Thomas Cook — but it wasn’t where it was supposed to be. Just a regular residential house. I asked at another hotel: no idea. Then I went into a bank. No, they wouldn’t exchange money, and the other banks probably wouldn’t either. Thomas Cook! Yes, apparently there was one inside another hotel. After wandering around for about an hour, I finally found it — in a somewhat shabby, mostly empty building. A fancy office, friendly people — and lots of cash!

 

They were happy to see me, learned about the worries travelers face, and gave me some tea to drink. I was grateful.

 

 

 

After the late lunch, I did a bit of sightseeing. And I realized that Guwahati also has a traffic problem. I managed to get another rickshaw and rode to the ferry terminal on the Brahmaputra. It took a while.

 

 

 

ChatGPT said:There I got on a ferry and went to the Umananda Temple on Peacock Island. The British named it “Peacock” because they thought the shape resembled a peacock. Umananda is the name of the temple: Uma = Parvati = Shiva’s wife, and ananda = happiness. The temple there is a Shiva temple, and you’re not allowed to take photos inside.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The return trip took a very long time. I had caught only the last ferry, and it waited until no one was left—and that took a while. The little island is considered the smallest permanently inhabited island (by the temple caretakers).

 

 

 

 

The return ferry was more of a standing ferry, and people passed the time by taking photos. And interestingly, no one paid any attention to me—still rather unusual for India. But not unpleasant.

 

The next day, I hopped into a rickshaw again and headed for the most famous temple here: the Kamakhya Temple.

 

 

It is the oldest Hindu temple in the area and is very famous and revered for its tantric practice. But I didn’t see anything of that. Actually, I didn’t really see or know anything — I just went there and had a look. Afterwards I read about it, and that turned out to be really interesting. Because this temple is completely female! Not only is Kamakhya a goddess, but there is also a special festival here that venerates her menstruation. And inside, there is no lingam (= penis), but a yoni (= vulva/vagina). But I didn’t even make it inside; the queue was endless, and they were displaying the numbers outside. That day, more than 1,000 people had already visited.

 

What I did see, and what is missing from Wikipedia at least, is that animals are sacrificed here. I saw a cow being beheaded and heard goats crying in front of the slaughter place.

 

There is this large main temple complex and lots of small little shrines around it where people could also carry out rituals. And I’m just sharing my impressions here as they are, without any additional comments or explanations.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You can spend a lot of time here. It’s interesting and peaceful — despite the animal sacrifices. And quite crowded. A couple I met had travelled all the way from Rajasthan. And there was also a tour group from Germany – Ikarus Tours.

 

I checked out a few more hotels for future guest stays — and that was it for now. My travel group was due to arrive the next day. And with that, the blog will rest for the moment and will only be updated again afterwards.

 

Overall, Assam is also more relaxed in how it deals with Western tourists. But I still haven’t really learned all that much yet about Assam itself.