Assam: Majuli – Peace and Well-Being for All

15. November 2025

 

 

So I moved into a simple bamboo hut, really just like in my backpacking days — also financially. But it was clean and pleasant. The best thing, though, was actually the owner, who was always bustling around, talking to the guests, laughing, spreading good vibes and information. You could tell that he relied on recommendations and sustainability rather than quick rupees. And that makes all the difference. He also has better rooms — I would definitely choose this accommodation again in the future!

 

And then I had even more joy!

a) I met a cool Indian woman, and we made plans for a cycle tour the next day

b) A festival is currently taking place at the Auniati Monastery — so off I go!

 

I managed to catch an e-rickshaw (nice and quiet and slow, but also very bumpy), and for a short stretch a mother with her child rode along with me. It was a bit strange — they could hardly contain themselves with happiness at sitting in the rickshaw with me! There were handshakes, photos taken, and constant calls of “thank you.” Strange — but also somehow sweet, when so much enthusiasm comes your way.

 

 

 

 

Majuli is indeed very peaceful. There’s little traffic on the few bumpy, narrow roads, and on both sides there are fields, ponds, and nature.

 

 

 

 

Then we arrived at the festival grounds and had a problem: I only had a large note, and the driver didn’t have any change. So we went onto the grounds together to find a place to change the note.

 

 

 

We were successful at this stall. Without noticing, I dropped my wallet; I didn’t see it, had a brief panic attack, the driver found it again, the stone of relief fell from my heart, he left with the money, and I ate noodles — to everyone’s astonishment without ketchup and without green chili sauce.

 

 

We were successful at this stall. Without noticing, I dropped my wallet; I didn’t see it, had a brief panic attack, the driver found it again, the stone of relief fell from my heart, he left with the money, and I ate noodles — to everyone’s astonishment without ketchup and without green chili sauce.

 

 

 

 

 

First of all, about the monastery — it is called Auniati Satra, was founded in the 17th century, and belongs to Vaishnavism. This is a group within Hinduism that primarily worships the god Vishnu and his incarnations (e.g., Krishna). Within the Hindu trinity, Vishnu is the preserver (Brahma is the creator and Shiva the destroyer). More than 200 monks live in the monastery, celibately. Through deep devotion, they strive to escape the cycle of rebirth. They practice many rituals involving dance, theatrical performances, and literature. Daily prayers and chants are, of course, also part of their practice.

 

And they also celebrate various festivals such as Paalnaam. It lasts for five days, during which prayers are offered continuously for universal well-being and peace. The timing follows the Assamese calendar, so the dates vary each year.

 

There is a large hall, where at one end the devotees light butter lamps, pray, and chant.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the middle, a group of monks sits around an east–west oriented boat-shaped structure (Bhagawata Purana). Here, chanting continues without interruption.

 

 

At the other end is another small room with deities. Here, three monks sit and bless the people.

 

 

 

Outside the main hall, there are additional small temples where monks sit and bless people.

 

 

 

 

 

A large number of devotees have come (though it never feels crowded), and many of them stay overnight here. For that, there are many small rooms available.

 

 

Hinduism can often seem a bit chaotic, bustling, and “messy” in its rituals, with things being moved and tossed around. Here, however, I found the atmosphere much calmer and more peaceful, and people were constantly tidying up and cleaning. The devotees were beautifully dressed and radiated a joyful serenity. Many photos and videos were being taken—so I didn’t feel out of place taking my own pictures either.

 

 

There was also a rice-pudding distribution stall, where I absolutely had to receive a little bowl as well.

 

 

It was eaten in front of these structures, but I couldn’t figure out what they were for, when they were used, or what their meaning was.

 

 

It went on for much longer, but I already felt full — full of impressions, of people, of everything — so I headed back before it got dark.

 

 

After my first bad impression — caused by the loveless accommodation and those annoying sandflies — I felt reconciled with Majuli again and actually found it very nice here. And yes, truly peaceful, too.

 

ChatGPT said:And that’s more or less how things were meant to continue the next day…