Landschaft Richtung Upper Mustang
In March 2023, after descending from the Annapurna Circuit toward Kagbeni, I stood there staring toward Mustang, wishing I could go, but thinking it wouldn’t happen anytime soon. And just a little over three years later, the time has come after all! And why? I have to leave India for visa reasons and can then re-enter. What isn’t too far away and has a good travel season during the main monsoon? Mustang in Nepal—just like Ladakh, sheltered by the high mountains and a kind of high-altitude desert.
And since I don’t know that many people in Nepal anyway, don’t really enjoy traveling alone as much anymore, and happen to have a favorite travel buddy who is a teacher—and therefore has summer break right now—I asked her if she wanted to come along. Woohoo—she’s in! And another acquaintance who has also been to Ladakh before is joining us too! Since I already had my friend Andrea in Ladakh and am already familiar with Kathmandu and the surrounding area in terms of the classic sights, the two of them are flying out today and will be getting a guided program in the Kathmandu Valley from my colleague there. And then on the 29th, I’ll join them.

So, Mustang… I don’t even remember when I first heard about it. Back then, you could only trek there. And that’s what Manuel Bauer did, for example—a likeable Swiss photographer who was the Dalai Lama’s main photographer for a long time. I know a bit about him. For instance, that they face similar water issues there as in Ladakh/Zanskar, and that one village has already relocated (with his help, among other things).
And then, interestingly, I’ve already sold Mustang trips multiple times through my company, Yangla Tours—and the guests were always happy. At Diamir, I focused even more on the region and its possibilities, and together with a local guide, I came up with an itinerary made up mostly of day hikes that could also be skipped if needed. I thought it was a great concept. And our trip will look quite similar. Except that we’ll be more flexible. We have a guide and a car for a certain number of days and haven’t pre-booked any accommodations for our time there (Kathmandu and Pokhara are already booked, though). This flexibility is so important to me because you never know what the weather will be like with the rain, or how we’ll adapt to the altitude—so whether we’ll drive up faster and have time on the way back, or vice versa. Granted, there isn’t that much flexibility anyway, since the permit has to be issued for specific dates and we don’t have an awful lot of days to begin with.
Gasse
In any case, I’m curious to see what it looks like beyond Kagbeni, and possibly in the places before it as well. I am a bit worried about the rain and road damage, though. My umbrella and rain jacket are packed and ready. Whenever you tell people you’re traveling to Mustang, their eyes tend to light up with a touch of envy. I just hope my expectations aren’t set too high now!
Ute and Beate are already on their way, and I’ll be saying goodbye to Ladakh the day after tomorrow.