23. February 2023   We turned off the Indus road behind Khaltse and drove through the Moonvalley, through Lamayuru to Atitse. I only knew Atitse as a road sign a few kilometres after Lamayuru – there should be a monastery there. We drove higher and higher in a side valley and there it was: at … Continue reading Lamayuru – Memories, Atitse and Moonvalley → Read more

22. + 23. February 2023   First, a few words about the Sham Valley. This is the name of the cluster of villages parallel to the Indus River between Likir and Tingmosgang. They are connected by small passes, where you used to be able to do the so-called baby trek. I did that in 1993 … Continue reading Sham Valley Trip – Ulley, Road and much Landscape → Read more

21. + 22. February 2023   We wanted to go to the Nubra Valley on 20 February. That was not possible. We wanted to go to the Nubra Valley on 21 February. That was not possible either. Avalanche danger. The pass was closed. As the time in Leh was getting too long and the Ladakh … Continue reading Sham Valley Trip – Indus, Likir and Saspotse → Read more

18. + 19. February 2023   Dosmoche is not a place but a monastery festival in Ladakh. It takes place in Likir, Deskit and Leh. Leh does not have a monastery with monks, so monks from other monasteries do it clockwise – this year the monks from Hanle. I had been to Dosmoche in Likir … Continue reading Dosmoche – Masks, Threads and Fire → Read more

17. February 2023   Many years ago – I can’t remember when it was – I met Nawang Phuntsog, the owner of Nomadic Woollen Mills. I bought a cashmere wool scarf for my brother back then. And found that I really enjoy talking to him, he is full of stories! In 2018, Nawang was in … Continue reading Choglamsar – Family, Wool and Outdoor-Gym → Read more

14. – 16. February 2023     I know quite a few people in Ladakh and so the time is also full of encounters. First I met a young man I didn’t recognise at all: in 2011 he used to be a helper on a very special trek. We called him “little Tundup” as a … Continue reading Leh – Encounters, Trees and Spituk → Read more

12. + 13. February 2023   Hemya is 80 km east of Leh on the Indus River and has just over 40 households. Some are right on the big road, others stretch up a small valley. Mostly older people live here – the others have moved towards Leh or even further away. First I walked … Continue reading Hemya – village life, community and talks → Read more

11. February 2023   In 2015, I led a women’s group in Ladakh. My previous local guide couldn’t make it and so I got a new one: Norboo Dolma. That was very lucky, because we got along great and became friends. We led two more groups together and then met as often as it was … Continue reading Hemya – Singing, Dancing and Talking → Read more

8. – 11. February 2023     So on 8 February I flew 1 h from Srinagar to Leh, which was very nice. There Nawang picked me up and we thought to solve my communication problem immediately and buy a new SIM card. It’s really complicated in India with all these phone peculiarities. The SIM … Continue reading Leh – a Mini-Impression → Read more

7. February 2023   The weather forecast was right: the sun was shining! So we quickly went to pick up our skis and headed for the gondola. And again we were amazed: while the day before everything was packed, i.e. the streets etc., there was very little going on this day.     We drove … Continue reading Gulmarg II – Sun, Deep Snow and Amazement → Read more