11. – 13. June 2026     I looked it up: back in 2007, I was in Dha with a friend, and in 2013, we had finished a trek in Dhomkar and wanted to spend one more night in the Dha Hanu area. Even back then, I found it strange to travel to a region … Continue reading Aryan Valley – That didn’t go so well again → Read more

11. – 13. June 2026     There is a region in Ladakh that continues to follow the Indus River after Khaltse. It used to be called the Dah-Hanu region and, with a permit, has been open to foreign travelers up to the village of Dah since 1994. Not many people came. So, they stepped … Continue reading Aryan Valley – Alexander, Aryans and Pregnancy Tourism → Read more

7. – 10. June 2026     I have some unfinished business here. You can hike from Leh to Phyang across a mountain pass. I did that around 2011 with a guide. Then, a few years later, I confidently wanted to do it with another traveler. We ended up coming back out at the army … Continue reading Leh – Lumbago in the Hips → Read more

31. May – 06. June 2026     I arrived in Leh, where I would be spending a lot of time working, sorting myself out, letting things sink in, living daily life, and so on. Tundup had kindly invited me to stay in his office. Or rather, what do I mean by office—years ago, he … Continue reading Leh – I am getting worked up and winding back down → Read more

31. May 2026     From Padum to Leh, I took a shared taxi and this time I even managed to snag the front seat. It always takes a while before you actually hit the road, as some people have to be picked up from other places. We picked up a rather elderly lady from … Continue reading Padum -> Leh – Between smooth Asphalt and hanging, sharp Rocks → Read more

30. May 2026     This time, the first thing on the agenda was to visit a small, not permanently inhabited monastery building on the opposite side of the mountain. A road led up to it, and people often used it for ceremonies. The exciting part was whether we would find the key. That’s how … Continue reading Tahan – Kitchen, Cheese and Monasteries → Read more

29. May 2026     Already during my previous stay in Zanskar in 2024, I had visited Stanzin in Tahan, and he invited me again this time. We arranged to meet in Padum, and Lameth drove me there. There was still a bit of time. First, we had to stop at this mural, and I … Continue reading Tahan – Micky Mouse, Cats and a lot in between → Read more

28. May 2026     Today we had to think about logistics. We wanted to hike from A to B — but we also had a car with us, so we had to figure out where to leave it and how to pick it up again later. The route was not that long, so we … Continue reading Shila -> Pipchar – Walking on a legendary Path → Read more

27. + 28. May 2026     There are days when there’s a lot to experience. And those tend to make for rather long blog posts… Here we go! Off along the wonderful road to Stongde. I’ve been there before, but taking another look is never a bad idea. Alongside Karsha Monastery, this is the … Continue reading Stongde -> Kumik -> Shila Phu – Pancakevillage, Newvillage and Altitudevillage → Read more

26. May 2026     In fact, blue skies were smiling down on us when, after breakfast, we drove the short distance to Zangla. Zangla used to be a kingdom. I had actually known the old king — he had passed away a few years earlier. And there was an old palace, perched on its … Continue reading Zangla -> Tsazar – a Hungarian, an Arhat and a Mountain Happiness → Read more