Chhoser + Lo Manthang – The villages are so empty

8. August 2026

 

 

After initial clouds, the day cleared up quickly, and we drove towards the border. 22 km north of Lo Manthang is the Kora-la, a pass just over 4,660 meters high on the border with Tibet/China. Due to its low elevation, it is actually ideal for trading goods. On the Tibetan/Chinese side, thorough preparations have been made with a very good road and border facilities. In Nepal, things look a bit sparse. As a result, trade here is somewhat limited and has only really been feasible since 2023. Until then, there were only bi-annual large “melas”—markets where the local population gathered at the border to exchange and buy goods. Unfortunately, we couldn’t get closer to take a look, as the zone was off-limits to Western travelers.

 

However, several kilometers before that, in Chhoser, there are caves and monasteries to visit. The first monastery was old and had a photography ban. The second was new and huge, and not yet fully lived-in.

 

 

 

 

 

What is very nice, by the way: you are always given a large piece of candy as a gift when you visit. Chinese production.

 

And then we are to this monasterycumcave

 

and the Jhong caves:

 

 

Both are more impressive from the outside than from the inside. Even when you imagine that people used to live in the caves.

 

 

 

 

 

Actually, even more interesting was the man with his kiosk in front of the caves. On the one hand, he checked our tickets, and on the other hand, he offered a lot of goods—80 to 90 percent of them Chinese. Particularly interesting were vacuum-sealed vegetarian sausages that tasted of corn and were actually quite good.

 

 

 

 

 

I noticed that my focus was shifting a bit, at least. In the beginning, I was just marveling at the landscape, and that was the main highlight and source of happiness—now, I was starting to take more of an interest in the people living here.

 

Dafür starteten wir zu einer Wanderung leicht bergab an der anderen Flussseite, wo sich ein Dorf an das andere reihte – weiter oben noch mit weiteren beeindruckenden Felsenbebauungen.

 

 

 

 

We had our lunch break in a rather private-looking house with a dining room and eager hostesses. By the way, we were traveling on our own, without a guide or driver.

 

 

 

Then we came to a village that was essentially just like Komik in Zanskar: the people had to leave their old village due to a lack of water and resettle. The new village is called Namashung. I had heard about it beforehand and really wanted to see it. Unfortunately—just like in the other villages—there was no one to be seen, and it felt a bit empty and bleak. Back then, they were said to have been thrilled with the new, more modern houses.

 

 

 

 

 

 

However, the fields were cultivated, so I suspect that people live there permanently as well. It’s known that many spend the winter in warmer Pokhara—but at this time of year? Or does everyone have side jobs in road construction or something similar? Because that was actually the only place we encountered people. As for the fields: from what I could tell, there was a lot of buckwheat, a few mustard fields, and plenty of barley and possibly wheat.

 

 

Other than that, you could also see herds of animals, and quite large ones at that. Many dark goats. And several horses were grazing around as well.

 

 

 

Otherwise, the landscape continues to thrill me, and precisely because of—or even despite—the many clouds that have rolled in again, I just had to snap more pictures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back in Lo Manthang, we strolled around a bit more through the rather empty alleys. It is a bit strange how few people you see despite the number of houses.

 

 

 

Only at the bakery did we linger for a bit again. He was in the middle of making a cake for a monk who was having a birthday.

 

 

 

So, while we did find out a little bit about the people—especially their absence from public spaces—we actually still have more questions than answers.

 

When you travel with Ute, you can always look forward to playing a game! Mind you, you usually lose, too. But that doesn’t matter; it’s fun to learn new games and to reminisce about others.

 

 

The next day, we wanted to head back. Actually, I would have loved to stay longer and explore more. But at least now there was an impression. And an increased curiosity.

 

PS: I forgot that we spotted a high snow covered mountain!