Himalaya Summer 2026 – Afterthoughts

05. October 2026

 

 

On the one hand, time flew by and it feels like I didn’t experience as much as I could have in 4.5 months; on the other hand, it actually was quite a lot, and looking back at the beginning makes it feel so far away. Where to even start now?

 

The journey didn’t quite live up to what I had pictured in my mind beforehand. Nosebleeds and high-altitude asthma became very defining, and I’m really unhappy that I wasn’t able to explore Changthang—my favorite area—any further. I wanted to pack in a lot of activities before my body puts a stop to things. However, I was surprised to find that the brakes were applied in ways I hadn’t expected.

 

When I look back directly on that time, two completely opposite emotions hold sway. I was terribly angered by just about as many things as I was overjoyed by others.

 

 

Anger

In principle, it had already been brewing during my previous trip—the frustration, that is. On that journey, permits and entrance fees were the main annoyances, but this time SIM card stress, overtourism, lack of care, and poor value for money were added to the mix. Manali and Leh in particular were so packed that I didn’t really know what to do with myself, nor why I should attract anyone else to come here. I’m currently having a major tourism crisis…

 

I’ve discussed this with some colleagues—and with AI. In principle, the prevailing feeling seems to be that “India” isn’t really keen on Western travelers. You feel like an object of suspicion (you might apply for the wrong visa and actually engage in espionage, interfere in Indian affairs, support terrorism, live here illegally, or whatever)—or like a “walking wallet,” meaning people are only after “our” money, with zero interest in whether we actually feel comfortable. You sometimes pay a lot—and get very little. And as a result, you often end up angry.

 

And whenever I stumbled upon little things that seemed to back up this theory, I exploded inside right away and wanted nothing more to do with tourism (in India).

 

Beyond these obstacles from India’s side, however, I also feel somehow so alone with what I want to offer—as opposed to what seems to be in demand. This trend of packing a lot into short trips, accumulating superficialities, and going where “everyone” goes is not what I want to offer. But tourism financially seems to work that way. Yet all those discoveries and encounters are what truly bring joy. That’s what I would love to pass on in an organized way. But that’s precisely what makes it all so difficult. I need people who want that, people who actually find me and reach out, and local people on the ground who share and support that vision.

 

Joy

All of that applied to India — in Nepal, things were different. Fast visa application, hassle-free SIM card—and open arms everywhere to welcome you. Although I get annoyed by a few things there too, my specific grievances with India were handled completely differently here. And they took surprising care with cleanliness — that was very pleasant.

 

So, while I was so turned off by the existing tourism in India and frustrated by my physical limitations, I nevertheless had the opportunity to take a closer look around certain areas, and I found quite a lot there that truly delighted me. What I loved most were discoveries—and especially people who were daring to try something new, approaching things with love and passion, being curious, taking a chance.

 

But it wasn’t just meeting new people that brought me joy; encounters with those I already knew were lovely, too. As were the landscapes, which continued to leave me in awe and bring me happiness.

 

 

Not-Alone

Since 1991/92, I have spent a lot of time traveling alone. Very few people shared the same interests, time frame, and destinations. Instead, I always managed to find people along the way or handled being on my own just fine. On this trip, all of that was pretty much turned upside down. While I had often enjoyed not being alone in the past, this time it became crystal clear to me how much better I do when I am with others. It doesn’t matter whether that’s with people from back home, temporary guides, or even “just” horsemen with whom I share no common language. When I look back at my “good days,” they are always the ones where I wasn’t alone: Nepal with Ute and Beate, Manali with Raju, Zanskar with Lameth and Rinchen, Kharu with Tsering, Stok with Tamchos, Sham Valley with Rinchen, the time with the “Andrea crew,” and the trek with the horsemen.

 

I definitely want to keep this in mind for the future and stop planning solo trips—or, if I do, establish local contacts well in advance. They say that traveling alone makes you connect with more people. For me, that isn’t true at all; I am much more open to others when I’m in a pair or a group of three.

 

 

Love

As I get older, love seems to become increasingly important to me. I suffered when people were grouchy or indifferent toward me—and I was so grateful when I was treated with warmth and affection. But love wasn’t just important in how people treated me, but also in how they shaped their surroundings in general. Did they put effort into accommodations with little details, cleanliness, and a welcoming atmosphere? I was instantly thrilled. Was that lacking? I wanted to leave immediately. Or I suffered in silence.

 

And I realize how much I need this love myself in order to pass it on. I can’t do it entirely on my own. And especially in unfamiliar surroundings, it seems to matter to me even more.

 

Photographing and Filming

Für mich waren zwei Dinge neu:

• I had developed the ambition to create Videos. find it fascinating how storytelling works in a new medium, and how I can find my own form within it. There are so many aspects: shooting the footage (where something I missed capturing is constantly lacking), making the shots (I also find the difference interesting between a quick photo click and a longer focus on what and how I film), the perspectives (there I still feel completely at the beginning with all the possibilities of camerawork)—and then the editing and narration afterward. Exciting, exciting. I still don’t get along with Instagram, but I find the way my YouTube channel is developing very exciting. I never want to make money with it, but I would love to have engagement and motivation. Here is the link to my Youtube-Channel.
• I no longer have a camera, but rather a new Mobile. It’s easier to switch back and forth between filming and taking photos. It fits right into my pocket and is quick to grab. In part, the very good technical results surprised me. On the other hand, I’m not so sure to what extent it actually does my pictures any good. But since so insanely many people were handling their phones and capturing things anyway, I fundamentally lost the motivation more often to produce my own results. I’ve started to miss the analog approach a little bit.
• By taking Photo and Film simultaneously, I was still able to maintain my blog, which remains important and dear to me, but it was also a bit too much to “think/see” in both media. It seems to me that the quality of both suffered a little as a result. While I need “my eye” for both, they are such different ways of seeing and approaching things that I can’t manage both with full concentration. I still need to think about this for the future.

Conclusion and Outlook

I’m giving my travel agency one more year. Even though I sometimes wanted to draw a line under it immediately, people have motivated me all over again. But if India frustrates me too much and/or my expenses exceed my income, then it’s truly over. For now, though, I still hope to be able to send my travel offers to a few people.

 

For the time being, I don’t have any new plans to visit India. My 5-year visa is still valid until the end of August 2027. There are reasons to cave in again after all: exploring new and exciting areas and/or staying connected with the lovely people, and continuing to look for and visit niche spots. But as far as high altitudes are concerned, I first need to take care of my high-altitude asthma. According to AI, all hope is not lost, but it requires better or more specialized preparation. Or would it be better to target a new country instead?

 

In any case, I’m really curious myself where my next blog will come from!