Pokhara -> Naurikot – The clouds hang low and a truck gets stuck

31. July 2026

 

 

After a good night in a comfortable, soft bed, we set off. A photo of our entire travel group will follow later. We have a sturdy car with our driver Sankar, guide Laxmi, her son Dipsan, and the three of us tourists inside.

 

 

The first 100 km had a great road that was quite empty. I didn’t remember this part of Nepal being as green as it presented itself here. However, there weren’t many places where a photo stop seemed worthwhile to us—except for a very high and very long suspension bridge.

 

 

 

 

The clouds were hanging low, but actual rain didn’t fall all that often. We filled up on gas once.

 

 

Then the road got worse, or rather, slightly muddy, bumpy sections kept alternating with smoothly paved ones. During the roadwork, sections were often covered with a kind of sheet. No idea what difference that actually makes.

 

 

And then everyone was stuck. A truck had gotten bogged down, or too much mud had slid in front of one of its front tires—either way, it couldn’t free itself anymore. Not even with the help of many willing helpers. The police and army arrived, and then someone who could operate a nearby excavator showed up. After a lot of back-and-forth work, the truck was free after 2.5 hours, and traffic could move again.

 

 

 

 

 

We had walked past this danger zone—where you never know if even more is going to come tumbling down (a larger rock actually came crashing down, but thankfully didn’t hurt anyone)—and were waiting on the other side for our car. It was lunchtime (our lunch destination was only a 20–30 minute drive away), and I got extremely hungry. The chocolate and cookies were in our main luggage on the roof of the car. Lesson learned: you should always keep a stash of snacks within reach!

 

So we then drove the last stretch to the restaurant and finally got a meal.

 

 

 

 

After that, we finally had a sight to see: a spectacular waterfall! Not only did we stop there to snap photos, but other people did as well.

 

 

 

We continued down the road, and the landscape became a bit more dramatic.

 

 

 

 

Speaking of dramatic: during the night, news had already trickled through that there had been an avalanche on Broad Peak, where 10 climbers were apparently buried. Among them was Nirmal Purja, virtually a Nepalese national hero. The shock and grief were immense. People followed the news all day long and hoped and hoped, but by evening, all hope was gone. Although his body had not been found yet, the chances of survival were at 0. By the end of the following day, certainty arrived: his lifeless body had been recovered.

 

Our destination was Naurikot at an altitude of 2,700 meters. Great for acclimatization and a place with several activity options.

 

 

You had to drive a short way up the mountain and then you were in a traditional Thakali village. There were two lodges and a fancy hotel here. The tour of the first lodge was so off-putting that we immediately asked about the hotel. It was very nicely designed, but overpriced and empty. But the manager really went out of his way, we negotiated an absolute off-season price, and stayed. Unfortunately, the accommodation really is overpriced—if it cost half as much, it would be a great deal. The owner, an Osho follower from Kathmandu, had apparently fulfilled a dream here, which interestingly targeted a Japanese clientele. They came, meditated, did yoga, and other stuff. The owner was thrilled and was making further plans for a special forest meditation center, which was currently under construction.

 

The manager, waiter, and chef took wonderful care of us. Another uncaptured highlight for me was a cozy down duvet!

 

 

 

 

 

First, though, we took a short walk through the village, up and down the street.

 

 

 

 

There are many fields, a few houses, a school, and a vast view—though it was shrouded in clouds. On sunny days, you can see Dhaulagiri and the Nilgiri mountains.

 

 

 

 

And then it was evening and dinnertime. You might know the charcoal braziers under the tables from some lodges—here it was very stylishly arranged with a heat-retaining blanket trim, so that the warmth crept comfortably up all of our legs.

 

 

 

 

The food tasted delicious, I sank into bed, and drifted off to sleep immediately—excited for the next day.