19. + 20. January 2026 In Ujjain I went straight to the correct bus stand and was really lucky: a rather small bus with friendly people. A group of women got on and off at different stops, but throughout the journey they chatted constantly and laughed a lot. Their good … Continue reading Bhopal – Laughter ripples through the bus Read more
18. January 2026 Krishna was kind enough to take me to the bus, which departed almost immediately and even went directly to Indore, where I had to change. I’ve already mentioned that India has carried out beautification campaigns using wall paintings — and Mandu is no exception. Here, not only public walls but … Continue reading Mandu -> Ujjain – The Fire is Burning Read more
16. + 17. January 2026 According to Wikipedia, Mandu is also known as the “City of Delights” — and for me, that description fit perfectly. Except that it wasn’t really a city at all, but very rural, which was already a pleasure in itself. I stayed at Krishna’s place, and that was the … Continue reading Mandu – City of Delights Read more
15. + 16. January 2026 The train departed at 6:30, and I was at the station very early. There was time for a small coffee and a bit of people-watching. Quite a few people were waiting for various trains, and because it was still so chilly and early, they had wrapped themselves up … Continue reading Kota -> Indore -> Mandu – If the hairdresser wouldn’t have been….. Read more
12. – 14. January 2026 A friend had recommended the area south of Bundi to me, so I first set off for Kota. It’s only about an hour away by bus. India has largely switched to digital payments by now—you even just hold your phone up to the tea seller’s phone—but not on … Continue reading Kota – The Viewpoint is too expensive Read more
10. + 11. January 2026 On my first day in Bundi, I didn’t do much. I had already been here once in 2010 and remembered the town as quite pleasant. It still was. However, back then there were many more Western travelers around; this time there were hardly any. I wondered whether everything … Continue reading Bundi – Tiger and Leopard prevent the hike Read more
9. January 2026 I was saturated with all that wonderful art, cold from the low temperatures, and grumpy because (a) I had an entire day to kill since I’d booked the night bus for 8 p.m. and had already checked out of my room (which was cold anyway), and (b) I had so … Continue reading Nawalgarh – sober day, sober thoughts, sober body Read more
8. January 2025 Now it’s actually happened: I can no longer keep track of which places I saw what in. In Shekawati there are two towns with a higher density of painted havelis and accommodation options — Mandawa (which already suffers from a kind of overtourism) and Nawalgarh. But in between and all … Continue reading Ramgarh, Mahansar, Dundlodh and …. Confusing many old painted masonry Read more
7. January 2026 The owner of my accommodation has been in tourism for ages and takes you to places that are usually not well known. In the past, he even managed to have them successfully removed from Google Maps; nowadays, people still know about them and write about them in at least two … Continue reading Lohargal, Chirana + Kirodi – The monkey swims and dives with passion Read more
6. January 2026 I made a stupid mistake: I neither checked the temperatures nor properly remembered how cold it can get, nor did I listen to a friend who said that Shekhawati is one of the coldest regions in Rajasthan. I was freezing—really freezing. The room was under 10°C, and there was no … Continue reading Nawalgarh – Shiva drives car Read more